Egypt
Wishing to avoid the cold harsh winter weather in most parts of Europe , and basically to evade the dull mood of spending Christmas on campus in Coventry , I made early plans to go Egypt with some of my OBS friends . Initially called on as a group plan , eventually , only 3 of us went along , the rest choosing to either go home or go elsewhere , or else their schedules couldn't fit in with ours (we were all from different universities and our terms ended weeks apart )
Grace's 2 friends from Loughborough joined us at Heathrow , so there were 5 of us , Grace , Steven and Glenden from L'boro , Zhanming from Leeds and me from Warwick . We had joined a overland tour , which basically was in charge of our travel plans in Egypt itself , but we had to fly there ourselves , at our own expense .
Besides the basic itinerary I have included below , I will also try to summarise some major sights we visited , explaining some of the historical significance behind each sight .
13 December 1998----London-Cairo
Arrival in Cairo
Cairo Egyptian Museum , where we saw many excavated exhibits on the ancient Egyptian pharaohs . The place was huge , housing some 155 , 000 exhibits from 4 , 500 years of history . Had our first encounters with papyrus paintings at the Papyrus Institute in Cairo , where we were shown the procedure in which papyrus paper was prepared . camped out at a site near the Giza Pyramids and could see the Light and Sound show from a distance , when various lights were shone onto the pyramids , illuminating them in various colors .
15 December 1998----Cairo-Sinai
A day of coach travel , as we passed via the sights of Cairo , from the Citadel , City of the Dead and then to Suez . Stopped by the colorful Suez City to find our own lunch in the dusty streets . Fascinated by the narrow street bazaars selling wares from basic foodstuffs to household appliances . We , however chose a wrong time to stop since it was lunchtime and thus terribly crowded , almost losing our way in the labyrinth . It was already dark by the time we reached our destination for the night , 1600m high up towards Mount Sinai .
16 December 1998----Sinai-Dahab
Awoken at the unearthly hour at 2am , we were barely awake when we reached the starting point of our trek up Mount Moses (also known as Mt Sinai)at St Catherine's monastery ( 1 , 528m) . However , the cold winter winds soon did the job . Mount Sinai is a popular destination for tourists and missionaries alike , and many , like us , rise early to do the trek up to the summit by 6am , in time to view the magnificent sunrise . Up to two-thirds of the journey can be done by camelback , though I did not see many people actually doing it . Instead we met several camelmen hustling for business in the darkness . (No proper roads nor lighting were actually fitted to the mountain , so we all had to get by with using our own torches to avoid the cliffs) , which earned the route its worthy name of "Camel Path" .
On hindsight , not using the torches would probably have been better , since we would have more opportunity to appreciate the nature around us more , instead of focusing on the sand and gravel at our feet where we shone the torches .
Reached the summit way early at 5am and soon regretted it , since there weren't any shelter from the unrelenting winds that blow at the summit . Two stalls peddled hot drinks and blankets for the weary trekkers , charging exorbitant prices not unlike their counterparts along the way . (There were several other drink kiosks along the way up )Sunrise was beautiful and being the shutterbug we are , we snap away happily , determined to make our trek and lost sleep worth every minute of the sunrise . descend using an alternative , but more treacherous path , called "Jacob's ladder" , one not advised to venture in the dark , since it contained many sharp stones , shaky rocks and steep steps . However , we were greeted with a different view from the Camel Path , as St Catherine's Monastery loomed into full view as we descended .
Enjoyed breakfast whilst waiting for the monastery to open at 9am . It was an important attraction mainly because of the Chapel of the Burning Bush , built on the site where God traditionally appeared to Moses , and also because of its remarkable library , containing some 2250 Greek , 600 Arabic manuscripts and hundreds in other languages . Of worthy mention also , is the incense chapel .
The coast road leads from the monastery to Dahab , 37km away . The former Bedouin village of Dahab used to be a popular backpackers' destination until tourism caught up with it . Here , we are to spend two nights out camping . Had some leisure time to look around the shops and cafes dotting the seaside ( not dissimilar to Boat Quay in Singapore) before we boarded our camels in the evening for a ride out towards the desert . An ironic experience , since we all tried our best to avoid the camels during our Sinai hike this morning , yet now we are to be in such close contact with one for over an hour as we ride to our campsite . I take the chance to relax and look around the scenery , only to find that there was nothing but sand . had a funny time laughing at the guys who were wincing sometimes , since as I quote our Tour leader Roachie , "the camel saddle is not designed for the male anatomy" .
Tonight's programme is undertaken by a group of Bedouins , who are responsible for our food and setting up camp . We alight from our camels at a small valley , untouched by caravan tourists since the entrance is too small to allow cars to drive through . It was a beautiful sight , further enhanced by the candlelights produced by the Bedouins to illuminate the passageway . We spend the night listening to songs on the portable radio , exchanging jokes , staring at the deep , dark blue sky glittering with stars . Sleep is not far away .
returned back to the commercial campsite (Dolphin camp) again via camelback . Snorkeling session was an option at LE 25(approx GBP 5) , and we all went for it . The Blue Hole is just one of the many coral reefs around the Dahab area , and we had slightly more than an hour to explore the blue waters . played around and took photos of us using the underwater camera we had specifically purchased for this option .
roamed the streets after a typically huge Egyptian cafe lunch , pursuing the favourite Singaporean pastime , Shopping ! Sadly , we were to find out that we were ripped off by shopkeepers the most in Dahab , compared to other places we later visited . returned back to camp with all our purchases and were busy comparing our "bargains" when we received news about the US air strikes against Iraq , which struck an uneasiness amongst all of us .
Considering that the whole of tomorrow was to be another travelling day , we took the opportunity to try out several bars before we left . One thing we really liked about Egypt was the fact that it depended on tourism a great deal , thus most shops are open for long hours even up til midnight , which really helped kill off our boredom . Haggling and bargaining had become part of our travel plans . :)
18 December 1998----Dahab-Safaga
Another of those unearthly waking hours , left and packed all our stuff on the bus at 4 . 30am in order to complete the almost 12-hour journey to Safaga . Most of us simply slept our way through all these bus journeys . Travelling the length of the Sinai Peninsular back towards the Suez Canal , we again stopped at Suez for lunch ( actually it was the compulsory drivers' break)before journeying down along the Red Sea coast towards Safaga , one of the upcoming diving resorts and sea sports centres . Slept under the stars again .
Arrived in Luxor by afternoon and had free time until 4pm . It was one of the most important tourist destinations in Egypt , because of its proximity to the famous Valley of the Kings , where the ancient pharaohs built there funeral tombs . I disliked it touristy nature though , wherever you walked , there would be horse carriage men , taxi drivers , minibus drivers , street peddlers buzzing at you for some business . Most part of the commercial area was sandwiched between the two attractions , the Luxor and Karnak temples . Took a rushed visit to the Luxor temple on our own , then joined the rest of the tour group for our included package at Karnak . The latter was a far larger and more magnificent temple than Luxor , and our guide's explanation of the various statues and wall reliefs helped immensely .
Ramadan , or the annual month-long fasting tradition of the Muslim community started today . As a result we were told to refrain from openly eating or drinking and from acts of affection , during daylight hours . Travelled to Aswan , and upon arrival , immediately visited the new Nubian museum , since it closes early during the month of Ramadan .
Afternoon was at our own leisure , and so we chose to visit the Aswan High Dam and Philae temple . Both were major sights in Aswan . Near our hotel was also a mini bazaar area , with many street vendors selling their wares , be it colorful caps , assorted spices , vegetables and fruits or the usual touristy wares like alabaster statues , scarves and headdresses that we see everywhere .
21 December 1998----Abu Simbel
Flight to Abu Simbel which was at an extra cost of about GBP 74 . boarded our felucca craft for the cruise up towards Luxor .
22 December 1998----Felucca Cruise
Free day on the felucca , but had minor land tours like visiting the Daraw camel market and livestock market , proceeded on by taxi to the Kom Ombo temple , one dedicated to the gods Horus(represented by the falcon) and Sobek (God of the Nile , represented by the crocodile ) . There was even a mummified crocodile on display .
23 December 1998----Felucca Cruise
Spent the whole day on the felucca sailing , boredom starts to set into many of us . Anchors near an island for the night and we start a campfire to keep warm after the sun sets , not that it provided much warmth against the cold winter nights .
Early visit to the Temple of Horus at Edfu , then boarded our dear old bus back to Luxor , where we spent the entire afternoon doing guess what ? Shopping ! set up tents back at the Rezeiky campsite for our last two nights of outdoor camping . paid an incredible LE 33 for the Karnak Light & Sound Show , the only attraction we saw in Egypt that doesn't offer a student discount (We used to get half price admission tickets with an ISIC card) Christmas dinner with a twist : Egyptian style .
25 December 1998----Luxor (Valley of the Kings)
Another one of those bad days , woken up freezing to board a ferry to the West bank of the Nile , where we are to visit the Valley of The Kings today . Boarded our donkeys (we sure are having weird modes of transport on this trip !!!) to our next checkpoint . Took us almost two hours to get to the entrance of the Valley of The Kings , during which we all had fun , trying to tame our donkeys into obeying us ( they would otherwise wander off on their own , the herder said ) . Even had a mini donkey race amongst ourselves as we played the fools , slapping the donkey on its back to urge it to outdo the others .
entered the tombs of Ramses VI , IX , and I , (in descending order of grandeur , I felt) The first had the best preserved colors and reliefs which endured the test of time and the human element(many ancient monuments had been earlier desecrated by the Romans and Greeks)We were to learn that many of the tombs were worked upon daily by many craftsman , but only whilst the Pharaoh was in power and alive . All work on them stopped when he died , only to start on the next Pharaoh's tomb . A worksmen village was built nearby , where the craftsmen rested on days when they completed their 10-day shift at either the tomb or temple .
This was part of a scheme to prevent outsiders from knowing the exact location of the tomb , and to deter tomb robbers . This , and many other plans were deployed to trick the robbers , but they all failed , as eventually the tombs were relived of their precious burial treasures . Most tombs also suffered from damage brought on by enemies , who usually destroy the pharaoh's names and their facial features on the wall reliefs . Ancient Egyptians believed that the Cartouche and facial features were two most important things to ensure their afterlife .
ascended an even more steep rockface in order to reach the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut , where we took pictures from an elevated position . half rode/led the donkeys down ( since the terrain was too rocky and steep to ride ) to the temple entrance but did not actually enter it . Boarding the donkeys again on level ground , we crossed some sugarcane fields before we got to the Colossi of Memnon . After this we raced again on the open road , aside speeding cars and trucks which honked at us and whizzed by , until we reached the ferry area to return to the East Bank of the Nile .
Afternoon was at our own leisure , and after eating the same food on board the felucca( our usual chef , Sayed had not followed us on board the felucca as he ad gone home in Luxor) , we were all eager to have a change of taste . Not surprisingly , we had split our ways back at camp , but met up again at the MacDonalds , 5 mins walk away from the Luxor temple . Yet another round of browsing the bazaars followed , and we chanced upon one of the alleys where there was a daily market going on (locals called it the "Egyptian market") , crowded with people and tourists , looking at the usual wares , food or souvenirs . was really eager to visit this part as I had earlier heard from my tour mates that there was a stall which sold bamboo pipes , but I somehow missed it , whereas my companions actually saw the stall . :(( Still cannot fathom how I could have missed the stall .
26 December 1998----Luxor-Cairo
The second 12-hr travelling day , spent on the coach as we travelled along the Red Sea Coast Northwards towards Cairo . stayed with the convoy most of the way .
Giza Pyramids and the Sphinx . A misty day , it turned out , which really spoiled most of the pictures I had taken , and also my mood . Eight of us chose the option to go further to see the step pyramid at Saqqara and also visit the ruins at Memphis(a former capital of Egypt) . After 2 weeks of looking at temples , pyramids and rocks , I wasn't terribly impressed at this point in time .
28 December 1998----Home Sweet Home
Thought that we could just peacefully leave the country with good memories of a well-rested holiday( well , at least I felt it was relaxing) , but we arrived at the Cairo airport only to find out that the scheduled 0845 BA flight had been cancelled . Took another 2 hours before we were allocated alternative seats on board the 1300 EgyptAir flight to Heathrow . It was rather a blessing in disguise , as we were offered a free breakfast at the Movenpick Hotel near the airport whilst we waited to catch the afternoon flight . I dare say it was the best breakfast we ever had for the past two weeks .
This page was set up on 27 November 1997 . Last Updated 16 April 1999.